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Fly Ferrari GTO Roadster

October 2, 2009 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

Fly Ferrari GTO Roadster Final Report

It’s finished!  It really is!

We would love to see this in 1:1 scale diving through the Corkscrew at Laguna Seca or powering up the hill toward start-finish at Road America.  We can just imagine the Ferrari V12 wail amid all the rumbling Ford and Chevy V8s.  We could imagine it at the Pebble Beach Concours with pride of place as the rarest and most desirable Ferrari of all time.  That’s one of the truly cool things about the slot car hobby — you can build and race cars that never existed but should have.  We had so much fun creating this “phantom” car that we have even written a unique history for it.  It isn’t true but it could have been. First, however, a recap of the project.  We built this car to the Slot Car Challenge 1 rules, starting with a Fly E1801 250 GTO as specified.  Here’s a list of the performance mods we did to it:

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Monogram Lola T70 Rebuild

September 7, 2009 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

A Technical Article From the Electric Dream Team:

Monogram’s Lola T70

Fixing the Designers’ Mistakes

by L. Owen Fast

Monogram actually came a lot closer to getting its reborn Lola T70 right than you might think at first glance or even a first drive.All the right pieces are there so you have to wonder why the parts of it look so right but the assembled car somehow looks – well, just wrong. Specifically, why did they mount the body so stratospherically high on the chassis?And why did they design the chassis for a tire diameter that is only a couple of paper thicknesses larger than the diameter of the spur gear?None of it has to be that way.There’s room inside the body for larger diameter tires, and there’s no reason why they couldn’t have mounted the magnet lower to keep it within proper downforce distance of the track.

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Using the Scalextric Dunlop Bridge With 4-lane Tracks

September 7, 2009 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

A mini-techarticle from the archives of Bob Ward…

Many slot car hobbyists have asked whether the Scalextric C8332 Dunlop Bridge and its predecessors, including the now-discontinuedC641 Goodyear Bridge, can be used on a 4-lane track. The bridge is just wide enough at the very bottom to clear a 4-lane Scalextric track, but the bridge curves inward sharply enough that the cars on the two outer lanes would hit it. However, if you make a structure at each end that will raise the bridge high enough to clear the cars it will span 4 lanes. The drawing shows the end of the bridge raised 2″, which will clear most 1:32 scale slot cars, but if you plan to run Fly racing trucks or cars with really high wings you may want to raise the bridge 3″. If you build up the supporting structures for the bridge from layers of ¬º” modelers’ plywood or sheet styrene you can build scale stairs into the structure, allowing your miniature race spectators to get down to ground level. Use ordinary woodworking glue to laminate wood layers together or CA glue with plastic. Add to the top of each structure a square of thinner plywood or plastic as a locating lug for the end of the bridge.

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Building the Fly Ferrari GTO Roadster

September 7, 2009 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

Fly Ferrari GTO Roadster Final Report (Sep. 4, 2009)

It’s finished! It really is!

We would love to see this in 1:1 scale diving through the Corkscrew at Laguna Seca or powering up the hill toward start-finish at Road America. We can just imagine the Ferrari V12 wail amid all the rumbling Ford and Chevy V8s. We could imagine it at the Pebble Beach Concours with pride of place as the rarest and most desirable Ferrari of all time. That’s one of the truly cool things about the slot car hobby — you can build and race cars that never existed but should have. We had so much fun creating this “phantom” car that we have even written a unique history for it. It isn’t true but it could have been.

Read more on Building the Fly Ferrari GTO Roadster…

Gear Pullers and Presses

May 29, 2009 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

As the number of new slot car enthusiasts we deal with increases we hear from some who are not familiar with gear pullers and presses. These simple but effective tools are a must for any racer who wants to change the pinion gears on his motors.   Gear changes, of course, are an essential part of tuning cars for optimum performance on any particular track and power supply.   Pullers and presses are designed to exert steady, even force to install or remove gears without damaging them or bending motor shafts.

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Maximum Performance From Press-on Plastic Wheels, Gears, and Slip-on Tires

April 17, 2009 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

Maximum Performance From Press-on Plastic Wheels, Gears, and Slip-on Tires

Virtually every 1:32 scale RTR slot car made today comes with press-on plastic wheels. We’ll acknowledge it right at the start – they are not, technologically speaking, the greatest slot car wheels ever made. We’re well aware that a fair number of hobbyists would prefer to buy cars that come with machined aluminum wheels held on with set screws. For a number of reasons, primarily cost, that’s not going to happen anytime soon except in a few specialized cases. The truth, however, is that for most home track racers plastic wheels are capable of delivering all the performance that’s really needed, and nobody can deny that many of the plastic wheels currently being offered look highly realistic. Here are some tips that will help you get the most out of the plastic wheels and slip-on tires on your fleet of cars.
One of the most common complaints about RTR car wheels and tires is that they are not adequately true and concentric. This certainly does happen, but out-of-round wheels bad enough to impair the performance of the car and beyond correction with fairly simple procedures are not nearly as common as a relatively small faction within the hobby would like you to believe.
Plastic wheels are held onto the car’s axles by what is known as an “interference fit”. The diameter of the hole in the center of the wheel is ever so slightly smaller than that of the axle. When pressed on for the first time the wheel usually fits very tightly, so tightly in some cases that it can be hard to exert enough force on it to get it back off again. This is especially true when the axle ends are knurled or splined to grip the wheels more tightly. Not only that, but if the wheel isn’t pressed on completely straight at the factory the force can distort the hole causing the wheel to go on crooked. It doesn’t have to be off very far to cause wheel hop or tire rubbing on the body or chassis, or even a visible wobble in the wheel as it turns.

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Race Tuning the MRRC Chaparral 2F

April 16, 2009 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

by Rex Easley

There isn’t an RTR slot car on the market that doesn’t have a lot of potential for increasing its performance. But where do you start to unlock all that potential? We get a lot of e-mails and phone calls from newcomers to the hobby asking just that question in one form or another. This article will take you through some of the basics of tuning an RTR car for better performance and help answer those questions.

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Simple Performance Upgrades For Monogram Greenwood Corvettes

November 7, 2008 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

by Arie Viewer

 

Monogram Greenwood Corvette

 
Among Corvette performance enthusiasts the Greenwood “Batmobile” Corvettes of the mid-1970s are an all-time favorite. These big block-powered monsters were the fastest and most brutally powerful IMSA GT cars of their day, recording trap speeds in excess of 220 mph at Daytona and many pole positions and fastest laps. The wins were fewer, especially in endurance races, because no one could manage to build a transmission that would stand up to the engine’s enormous torque for very long. In the shorter sprint races, however, if everything stayed together these cars were capable of not just winning but crushing the competition. And whether they won or broke there was no doubt that they were the baddest-looking Corvettes ever put on a race track. 
 
Monogram’s 1/32 scale slot racing models of the Greenwood Corvettes capture the appearance of the cars marvelously with every aggressive line and contour right there to see. But performance-wise these cars have not enjoyed a reputation to match their looks. This is partly due to their front-motor layout, which makes them ill-suited to non-magnet racing and puts them at a disadvantage to rear-motor cars even with magnets. Still, there is hidden potential, and a couple of simple tricks will go a long way toward giving them the performance they should have.
 
In stock form the ultra-wide rear tires don’t deliver the grip they should. Switching to aftermarket tires, such as Maxxtrac M13 silicones, is worth several tenths of a second per lap, depending on the configuration of your track. However, the stock tires, with a little work, may be an even better choice. Their problem, as they come from the factory, is that their tread surface is seriously concave. This means that only the inner and outer edges of the tire are touching the track. Since traction on a dry surface is a direct function of the area of rubber in contact with the road surface (the “contact patch”, as it’s known) most of the potential traction of those fat tires is being lost.  

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Track Power Basics

November 1, 2008 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

by Arie Viewer

 

Track power system

 

Before you can get maximum performance out of your slot cars you need to be sure you’re getting maximum performance from your track and power supply.  If either of these systems is not performing properly your cars won’t either.

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Affordable Race Sets For Beginners and Children

October 24, 2008 by Electric Dream Team  
Filed under Tech News

 

by Arie Viewer

Before you can expand your race set into a dream layout you need to get that first set.  Also, Christmas is coming, and you may be looking for a starter set as a gift.  If you know that you, or the person you are buying a set for, will be sticking with the hobby for the long haul it makes sense to buy the largest set your budget can comfortably handle.  But if you are buying for a child or even an adult beginner and you don’t really know for sure whether he or she will stay with it, you will probably do well to start with a smaller, less expensive set.  Remember that no matter where in the size and price range you start it’s always easy to expand to whatever you want.  The most important thing about a starter set is that it has to provide the beginner with a fun, successful first experience with slot car racing.  That means the set has to go together easily, work well right out of the box, and have cars that are easy and fun for a beginner to drive.  And for kids, especially, the cars need to be durable and crashworthy.   Here are some race sets at different price points that make excellent beginner sets:

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